How to use an Epergne

“An ornamental centrepiece for a dining table, typically used for holding fruit or flowers.”

This stunning Edwardian piece is a John Collyer Ltd, Birmingham design in silver plate with pretty removable baskets and a trumpet shape.

That is the dictionary meaning of an epergne from the French épargne for saving or economy. However, it doesn’t really tell us much about these beautiful pieces of art, which are both beautifully designed and functional.

The epergne has a history that spans 200 years and was often the dramatic focal centrepiece

of the wealthiest during the 18th Century and into the 20^th Century. During this time, the designs, shapes, and materials changed significantly as design styles evolved over the centuries. In France, where they originated, epergnes were often placed on sideboards to hold the leftovers from a meal, which now ties in to their unusual name relating to the word ‘saving’. They were often made from solid silver and later silver-plated, typically featuring arms that could hold baskets of sweetmeats and fruits. Sweetmeats in ancient times were any sweet, candy or fruit coated in sugar. The word ‘meat’ in the old days simply meant ‘food’ in general and not always meat as we know it today.

The French used epergnes as practical items that lifted candies and fruit, allowing other items to be placed underneath. It wasn’t until the English got hold of their centrepiece idea that the designs became more extravagant and the focus of a table arrangement, which included the centre for flowers. From about 1715, French silversmiths, followed by English craftsmen, created magnificent epergnes in increasingly elaborate designs. The Victorians were well known for their silverware tables, which featured a plethora of items used for dining, all of which sparkled in the candlelight.

The growing middle classes in the 19^th and 20th centuries saw an increase in epergnes being made in silver plate, cut glass, blown glass, and other materials in colours and even more elaborate styles – the more ostentatious, the better. Over time, the sweet and candy baskets were replaced with flower vessels, and these opulent centrepieces became an explosive floral display.

After World War II, dining became a more informal affair, and elaborate epergnes lost favour. We can be thankful that some of these spectacular pieces are still in existence, complete with all their original details, so that they can be enjoyed as marvels of an extravagant era today.

Let’s bring back a centrepiece on a table and colour it up like a carnival. Use the baskets for sweet treats (such as macarons, a nod to its French heritage), fruit, or even cheese and biscuits if you prefer to turn it into a cheeseboard. The central flowers can be one type or many, depending on your mood when designing your next dinner party.